Gas Safe registered 919881 · Mon–Sat 7am–8pm · Emergency cover 24/7

Croydon Heating
& Plumbing

Croydon & the CR postcodes

Central heating systems, radiators and controls in Croydon

Central heating is the whole system, not just the box on the wall: the boiler, the pipework, the radiators, the pump, the valves and the controls that decide when any of it runs. We install complete systems from £3,400, we replace and rebalance radiators, and we fix the everyday complaints, which are usually one room that never warms up, a radiator cold across the bottom, or a thermostat that runs the heating when nobody asked it to. We work across Croydon and the CR postcodes, Monday to Saturday, 7am to 8pm.

What you get

What the job includes

  • Full central heating installations from £3,400, covering the boiler, radiators, pipework, controls, a system clean and a magnetic filter, priced in writing after a survey rather than estimated over the phone.
  • Combi boiler installation from £1,950 where the radiators and pipework are sound and only the appliance is being replaced. We will say plainly which of the two jobs your house actually needs.
  • Radiator replacement, relocation and removal, including swapping steel panels for column or towel radiators, and capping redundant pipework off properly instead of leaving live tails under a floorboard.
  • Adding radiators to loft conversions, extensions and converted garages, sized from a heat loss calculation for that specific room rather than matched to whatever fits the wall.
  • System balancing: setting the lockshield valve on every radiator so the flow is shared out and the far end of the house heats at roughly the same rate as the first radiator off the boiler.
  • Cold spot diagnosis. Cold at the bottom, cold at the top, cold in one room only, hot pipe with a cold radiator — each points somewhere different, and we tell you which one you have before we quote anything.
  • Power flushing and chemical cleaning of sludged systems, followed by a magnetic filter on the return and a proper dose of inhibitor, so the same problem is not back in two winters.
  • Thermostatic radiator valves supplied and fitted, seized TRV pins freed where they can be freed, and the valve correctly left off in whichever room holds the room thermostat.
  • Room thermostats, programmers and smart controls wired and commissioned, including wireless stats and receivers where there is no existing thermostat cable to work with.
  • Circulating pumps, motorised zone valves, automatic bypass valves, expansion vessels and the pressure faults on sealed systems that keep sending you back to the filling loop.
  • Converting open-vented systems with a loft tank to a sealed pressurised system, or to a system boiler and unvented cylinder where the hot water demand genuinely needs one.
  • Gas Safe registered gas work throughout, registration number 919881, with the supply pipe from the meter checked for working pressure at full rate.

Local knowledge

What Croydon does to a heating system

Croydon is not flat and its water is not soft, and both of those turn up in heating work here. The borough climbs from roughly 40 metres at Norbury and Thornton Heath to about 150 metres on the downs at Sanderstead, Selsdon and Coulsdon, and incoming mains flow is noticeably weaker on the high ground. That decides a system design before anything else does. A combi up on the Selsdon or Riddlesdown ridge serving two bathrooms will disappoint whatever its badge says, because a combi can only heat the water the main brings it, and on that ground the main often brings ten or twelve litres a minute. Down in the CR7 and CR4 valley the same house takes a combi without complaint. So we measure static pressure and flow rate before quoting a full system, not after it has been fitted and the shower is weak.

The water itself comes off the chalk of the North Downs and is hard by any measure. That matters less to your radiators than most people assume. A sealed heating circuit scales once and then stops, because the same water goes round and round for years. Hard water hits the hot water side instead, where a combi plate exchanger or a cylinder coil sees fresh mains water every time a tap opens. Where hardness does reach the heating side is through topping up. A system with a slow leak or a tired expansion vessel gets refilled every few weeks, and every refill carries new oxygen and new hardness into a loop that was designed never to see either. That is how a small, ignored pressure loss quietly becomes black magnetite sludge and radiators cold across the bottom.

Then there is the housing stock. The interwar semis and terraces that fill Thornton Heath, Norbury, Selhurst, Addiscombe and Shirley were built with no heating at all and had it retrofitted in the seventies and eighties, very often in 8mm and 10mm microbore run under the floorboards. Microbore works, but it silts up long before 15mm does, and it is unforgiving of a carelessly aimed power flush. Those same houses had radiators sized for solid walls, single glazing and an uninsulated loft. Once the loft was done and the windows changed, the system became oversized and badly balanced rather than too small, which is exactly why the front room roasts while the back bedroom never quite gets there. And a good half of those semis now carry a loft conversion: a third floor hung off a system designed for two, where nobody asked about pump head, pipe sizes or pressure at the time.

How it goes

What happens, step by step

  1. You tell us what it is doing

    A surprising amount of this is diagnosable on the phone before anyone gets in a van. Which radiators are cold, and cold where: top, bottom, or all over. Whether the boiler is running and the pipes leaving it are hot. Whether the pressure gauge has dropped. Whether it has always been like this or started in October. A radiator cold at the bottom and a radiator cold at the top are two entirely different faults with two different fixes, and knowing which one you have before we arrive means we turn up with the right kit rather than booking a second visit.

  2. A survey, not a look round

    For a repair we come out and diagnose properly. For a new system we survey: room by room heat loss, a check of what the existing pipework actually is and where it runs, the flue route, the size of the gas supply pipe from the meter, and a measured flow rate and static pressure test on the incoming main. That last test is the one that tells us whether a combi is honest for your house, or whether a system boiler and a cylinder will serve you better. It takes ten minutes and it saves people a great deal of disappointment.

  3. A written price with the parts named

    You get a fixed written quote naming the boiler model, the number and size of every radiator, the controls, the filter and the clean, so you can lay it beside anyone else’s and compare line for line. Full central heating systems start at £3,400 and boiler-only replacements at £1,950. Radiator work, balancing and flushing are quoted on the job after we have seen the system, because publishing one number for those would be wrong for half the houses here. Nothing is added later without you agreeing it first.

  4. The installation

    A full system is usually two to four days. We lift floors where we have to and we put them back. Old radiators come out, new pipework goes in at a size that suits the boiler output rather than whatever was convenient in 1978, and the system is filled, vented and pressure tested before the boiler is ever fired. All gas work is carried out under our Gas Safe registration, number 919881. We check the gas supply pipe delivers the working pressure the appliance needs at full rate, which is where a quietly large number of installations fail without anyone noticing.

  5. Clean, dose and balance

    Before a new boiler goes onto old radiators the system gets cleaned, either a chemical clean over a few weeks or a full power flush depending on how bad the system water is, and a magnetic filter goes on the return. Then it is dosed with inhibitor. Then comes the step that gets skipped most often: we balance it, setting every lockshield valve with a clamp thermometer on the flow and return until each radiator is taking its fair share. An unbalanced system will heat the house eventually, but it burns more gas doing it and the far rooms always lose.

  6. Controls set and properly handed over

    The thermostat, programmer or app is set up with you rather than left on its factory defaults, and we explain what the boiler flow temperature is doing to your gas bill, because on most systems it is set far higher than it needs to be. We show you the filling loop, the pressure gauge and the number it should sit at when cold, where the isolation valves are, and how to bleed a radiator without soaking the carpet. You are left with a Benchmark record, a Gas Safe building regulations notice for the appliance, and the manufacturer warranty registered in your name.

Before you ring

Questions we get asked

Why is my radiator cold at the bottom but hot at the top?

That is sludge, not air. Magnetite is iron oxide worn off the inside of steel radiators and pipework, and it is heavier than water, so it settles along the bottom of the radiator while the hot water flows over the top of it. Bleeding will do nothing, because there is no air in there to let out. The fix is cleaning the system, either chemically over a few weeks or with a power flush, then fitting a magnetic filter and dosing inhibitor so it stops building up again.

Why is my radiator cold at the top and hot at the bottom?

That one is air, and bleeding it usually sorts it out. The better question is where the air keeps coming from if you find yourself doing it every few weeks. Repeated air means a leak drawing air in, an expansion vessel that has lost its charge, an open-vented system pulling air down the vent pipe, or corrosion generating hydrogen inside the radiators. We would rather find the cause than leave you bleeding radiators every month for the next ten years.

How much does a full central heating system cost?

Our full central heating systems start at £3,400, which covers the boiler, radiators, pipework, controls, a system clean and a filter in a straightforward house. What moves the figure is the number and size of radiators, whether the pipework can be reused or has to be renewed, how far the boiler is moving from where it sits now, and whether the gas supply pipe from the meter is large enough. We give you a fixed written price after the survey, not a range.

Do I need a whole new system, or will a new boiler do?

If the radiators heat evenly, the pipework is sound and the layout suits how you live, a boiler replacement from £1,950 is usually the sensible choice and we will say so. A full system earns its cost when the pipework is old microbore that has silted repeatedly, when radiators were sized for a house that has since been insulated, when you are adding rooms, or when you want zoning the existing wiring cannot deliver. Part of the survey is telling you honestly which of those you are in.

What is balancing, and why does my back bedroom never get warm?

Water takes the easy route, so left alone the radiators nearest the boiler take most of the flow and the far ones get whatever is left over. Balancing means throttling the near radiators at their lockshield valves until every radiator drops roughly the same temperature between flow and return, usually around 11°C. It takes a couple of hours with a clamp thermometer and costs nothing in parts. It is the cheapest heating improvement most Croydon houses have never had done.

Should I have a power flush?

Only if the system needs one. A power flush is the right answer where there is genuine sludge: radiators cold across the bottom, black water when you bleed, a pump or motorised valve clogging up. It is not a sensible routine annual purchase, and on old microbore pipework it needs a careful hand, because forcing debris through 8mm pipe can block it rather than clear it. We look at the system water first and will tell you if a chemical clean over a few weeks would do the same job for less.

Can you fit a smart thermostat?

Yes, and we wire it in properly rather than leaving batteries and double-sided tape to do structural work. Most Croydon houses running a seventies or eighties system have no thermostat cable to the hall, so a wireless stat with a receiver at the boiler is normally the answer. If you want room by room control we can pair smart TRVs to it, though it is worth knowing that per-room control works far better on a system that has been balanced first.

My TRV is stuck and the radiator is stuck on. Does the valve have to be replaced?

Usually not. The pin under the TRV head seizes in the open or closed position after a summer of never moving, and freeing it with a little penetrating oil and some patience fixes it more often than not. If the pin is corroded away or the valve body is weeping, the valve gets replaced, which on a sealed system means draining that part of the circuit down. We would rather replace a failing valve than hand back one that will seize again next autumn.

Should every radiator have a TRV on it?

Every radiator except the one in the room where the room thermostat lives, usually the hall or the living room. If that radiator has a working TRV too, the two controls fight each other: the TRV closes the radiator, the room cools, the thermostat calls for heat, and the boiler runs against a system with nowhere to send it. That radiator should sit on plain valves and be set once. It is a five minute correction and we find it on a lot of systems.

How long does a new central heating system take to install?

A full system in a typical three bedroom Croydon semi takes two to four days, depending on whether floors have to come up and how much pipework is being renewed. A boiler-only replacement in the same position is usually a single day. You will be without heating and hot water for the working part of that, and we plan the drain-down and refill so nobody is left cold overnight. You get the actual dates before we start.

The pressure keeps dropping and I keep topping it up. Is that serious?

It is worth chasing, yes. A healthy sealed system holds its pressure for months, so a gauge that falls every week means either a leak somewhere in the pipework or radiator valves, or an expansion vessel that has lost its charge. Beyond any water damage a hidden leak can do, every top-up carries fresh oxygen and fresh hard water into a circuit that was never meant to see either, and that is what eventually becomes sludge. Leak tracing is quoted on the job once we have seen it.

Do you cover my part of Croydon?

We work across Croydon and the CR postcodes from our base on Highbury Avenue in Thornton Heath, so Norbury, Selhurst, South Norwood, Addiscombe, Shirley, Purley, Sanderstead, Selsdon, Coulsdon, Kenley and New Addington are all routine for us. Normal hours are Monday to Saturday, 7am to 8pm, and we keep emergency cover running 24/7 for no heat in cold weather. Call 07534 841885 and tell us what the radiators are doing.

Need this doing?

Ring us, or send the form and we come back with a price.